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Photo of Prototype:
Preliminary Plans, more photos and step by step plans later. Watch the video:
Weight: 45 ounces (2 lbs 13 ounces) The following drawings were obtained from: http://www.dfrc.nasa.gov/Gallery/Graphics/index.html I downloaded the largest .gif's they had so that they would print out well. I then separated them into three separate drawings. Try printing them to a large plotter (I used D size paper: 36" roll). First, it's a good idea to print out the following 3-View drawing (save it to your computer first):
You also might want to print out at least the Top View of the following drawings. I used the Top View and printed it to a plotter so I could literally lay the PVC pipe down on the printout to get dimensions. Top View:
Side View:
Front View:
Here are the measurements of the various parts: Fuse:
Wing:
After you glue the wing top halves down, install Torque Rods and your aileron servo (either Zip-tie the servo to the wing with PVC scrap on the underside of the wing, OR glue in a piece of EPP foam to hold the servo) and get it all working correctly. Then detach the pushrods from the aileron servo arm, BUT LEAVE THE OTHER ENDS ATTACHED TO THE TORQUE RODS, and cut holes in the bottom of the PVC fuse such that the aileron servo and the torque rods will fit through (carefully threading the attached push rods through the torque rod opening). Hot glue the wing to the bottom of the fuse where it meets the fuse. Then rehook the push rods to the aileron servo arm by cutting a hatch in the top of the fuse above the aileron servo. Horizontal Stab:
After you get the Horizontal stab completed, carefully cut a 6" slit in the back of the fuse to fit the stab into. The 3/32" wire should just barely be outside the back of the fuse. Once it it straight (measure from the front outer tips of the stab to the outer trailing edges of the wing and make sure they are equal on both sides)...then hot glue the 4 edges of the cut slit where the stab is fitting into. Once the horizontal stab is glued in, install a scrap PVC control horn on one of the elevators. Then cut a hatch right behind where the Nose Cone will end (inside the fuse). This hatch will allow you to get at the Battery, the Receiver, and the Elevator Servo. Then either zip-tie or hot glue, or EPP an elevator servo into the fuse right after the Nose Cone ON THE SAME SIDE AS THE CONTROL HORN IS MOUNTED ON THE ELEVATOR. Build a push rod out of 3/32" wire and 1/4" dowels and create a Z-Bend on the end that will come out of the side of the fuse and attach to the control horn on the Elevator. Connect the push rod to the control horn and the other end to your elevator servo. Vertical Stab:
Cut out some scrap PVC in the shape of an L (use square PVC and cut a corner piece out) and hot glue these pieces to the fin on both sides and then, after carefully lining up the fin on the top of the fuse, hot glue the bottoms of these PVC pieces to the fuse. Later you should install screws through the PVC scraps and down through the top of the fuse. Nose/Tail Cones:
Make a square hole in the right, bottom side of the Nose Cone. This is where your Battery will fit. Mount your receiver into the side of the fuse on the opposite side of the elevator servo and near the battery. Hot glue both the nose cone and tail cone into the fuse. Make sure your CG is at 10" from the tip of the leading edge of the wing (see drawing above). If you have to add weight, you might consider buying lead rods that you can push into the nose cone until you get the right balance. |
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Last Updated:
10.09.2006 The site that started it all: Spadtothebone.com
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